Extra 300 L 24% - 27%

Firstly, CA Models wishes to thank you for choosing our Extra 300L, and we hope you enjoy building and flying your new model.
To guarantee excellent quality, we have carefully selected all the materials in your kit, like the Balsa, Plywood, etc.
Besides, like all our other kits, your Extra is kitted with latest technology, the foam is cut with CNC, our canopies are made with special machines, our landing gear is made with a router, and of course, our laser cuts, which guarantees the perfect alignment and fitting of each part. So good the cutting is, that plans are not even necessary during the building. This is because each part assembles perfectly.
If you find any broken, defective, or missing parts in your kit, please e-mail us, and we will replace the part as soon as possible.
Lastly, remember to spend time, to build accurately and carefully. Remember the old saying, 'Why is there never enough time to do it once, but always enough time to do it twice.' It will be faster in the end, and you will get a better flying model. If there is any problem in the building or flying, please, do not doubt in contact us. It will be a pleasure for us to help you.
Remember, these are not little toys anymore. CAMODEL SRL has no control over the final assembly therefore no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use after the construction.

Kit components
  • Dural Landing gear.
  • Clear Canopy.
  • Foam Wings, Tail Group, and Turtle Deck, sheeted in 1.5mm Balsa.
  • 3mm Plywood Formers, Fuselage Sides, and Rudder Servo tray, cut by Laser.
  • Fiberglass wheel pants and cowl, with Gel coat .
  • Balsa sheets and stock to included to complete the assembly of the plane.
  • Fiber to reinforce F1.
  • Plug in wing.
  • Dural Wing tubes.
  • Construction manual
  • Stickers

Balsa Stock and Sheets in the 24% Kit

Sheets

2mm: (1) Aileron and elevator side facings/end sheets, and servo boxes.

4mm: (3) Hinges and toecaps for ailerons and elevators,

8mm: (1). hatch  and canopy hinging mechanism ,

Balsa Stock:

6mm x 6mm: (13) Fuselage and formers.

10mm x 15 mm: (1, 1/4) Rudder and stab leading edge.

10mm x 20mm: (2,) wing leading edge.

6mm Triangular stock (2) Side and former reinforcement.

12mm Triangular stock: (1) (230mm) F1 reinforcement.

6mm pin: (1/3) (330mm) Anti torque pins.

12mm pin: (1/3) (330mm) Dowels.

Rectangular Pine (6mm x 8mm): (1/3) (300mm) Servo screw reinforcement

Fiber reinforcement

Balsa Stock and sheets in the 27% kit

Sheets.

2mm x 900mm: (2) Fuselage bottom between F2 and F4, and servo box and toecaps

4mm x 900mm: (1) elevator and wing hinging 

8mm x 900mm: (2) Canopy and hatch cover sides, and elevator hinges.

Fiber: (1) F1 box reinforcement.

Balsa Stock

6mmx6mm x 900mm: (13)Fuselage

6x8mmx900mm(2):hatch anti torsion crossing

10mmx15mm x 900mm: (1,1/3) Elevator and rudder leading edge

10mmx20mm x900mm: (2,1/9) Wing leading edge.

6mm triangular (3) sides and formers reinforcement.

12mm x 450 mm pine(1):F1 reinforcement

12mm x 250 mm pine(1) tubes subjection screw

6 mm x 330 mm pine  (1) anti torque pin

6 x 8mm x 200 mm pine (1): aileron servos reinforcement.
Instruction Manual
Fuselage assembly
As with any kit, before you start building, check and identify each part carefully, and read the instructions very patiently to help you familiarize yourself with the assembles. In addition, we recommend that you use high quality Epoxy, medium cyano, and thin cyano. It is also recommended to use wax paper over your building surface, to avoid the assembly from sticking to the table.
1. Using a hobby knife, remove carefully each piece from its sheet. Pay attention with the cuts. These parts are very sensible and easy to damage. (see photo 1)

1
2. Glue all the parts that are made up of two pieces, like F1 (Engine support), F23 (Main undercarriage plate), F13 (Tail wheel plate). (see photo 2 y 3)
3. Locate the two fuselage sides, (F15 and F16), and glue these together with thin Cyano, and place on a flat building surface. Let it cure for a couple of minutes, and then glue with medium cyano, the insides of each fuselage side. Again, be sure to use wax paper over your building surface. (see photo 4)
4. We will now use again medium cyano to glue a 6mm x 6mm balsa wood stick to the inside of each fuselage (see photos 5 y 5b). The sticks at the bottom must go10mm (4 inches) from the front edge of the side panel all the way to the very end of it. The top one must also go 10mm from the front edge down to about 5mm (2 inches) beyond the F9 (which is not the end of the side panel).See pictures 7 and 5 This sticks that go beyond the front of the panel will help later the F2 positioning. (see photos 6 y 7)
5b 		 
5
5. The next step is to assemble the engine box. First, fit F23 (undercarriage plate) in position, between F3 and F3B. There should be about 6mm of balsa left over to the front of F3. Then take to the right side of the engine box, which has a deeper slot to the front, into which F1 will fit. Fit both sides of the box (F20) to F3 and F3B. Then fit F2 and F4. Do not glue anything, until you are sure that all the fuse parts are in place. (see photo 9)
 
6. Lay one side of the model on a flat bench, and place, (no glue) in all the formers, from F11 to F2. (see photo 11, 12 y 13)
7. Carefully, place the other fuselage side onto the assembly. Make sure that all the formers have located properly. (see photo 14 y 15)
8. Place F12 in the tail, where later, the rudder will go. Do not glue the former in yet until the elevator is put in position, and the fiber reinforcements are in. (see photo 16 y 17).
9. Now glue using Epoxi at the inside of F21 (servo mount reinforce) to F16 ( rudder servo plate)
10. Place the wing and stab tubes outer sleeve (phenolic) into the fuselage. Do not glue until the wing and stab is set up properly later. Then place the fuse floor and servo plate.(Photo 20 and 21)
20
21
11. Now, make sure that the fuselage is accurate and square, and all the formers are in properly. Go round all of the joins with thin cyano. Make sure to do a good job here. Then, go over all the joins again with medium cyano.
11. Select 3 strong 6 x 6 mm balsa pieces (the strongest ones available) of balsa. These are the stringers. Run these from F3B, to F10.

12. Now glue 4 pieces of leftover balsa from F3B to F4.
13. Fit in position seven (7) balsa sticks between F2 and F3.
14. Fit and glue with epoxy the fuselage floor, (F17) between F4 and F5
 25 26
15. Using 6mm x 6mm balsa, reinforce the upper part of each former. This is done by running the balsa from one side of the fuselage to the other, along the former.    
16. Glue all the 6mm triangles to the formers and the fuselage sides, to reinforce them. In addition, you will find 6 little pieces of plywood with a rounded edge. These are to secure the screws for the cowl. These must be glued on now to the back of the similar pieces at the front of the fuselage side.
17. Now, you have to reinforce the fuselage. Next, fit some 6mm x 6mm (24%) or 6mmx 8mm (27%) balsa, between F6 to F7, F7 to F8 and F8 to F9, and from one side to the other. For example, the balsa should run from the right hand side of former 6, to the left hand side of former 7. Then, from the left hand side of former 7, to the right hand side of former 8, then from the right hand side of former 8, to the left hand side of former 9. It is not important which side you start with, but you should follow that pattern. Do the same on the top, but run the balsa in the opposite direction. If you used the above example, this would mean that you run it from the left hand side of former 6, to the right of former 7, from the right of former 7, to the left of former 8, etc. Between F6 and F7 you should actually fit the balsa crossed over both directions making an X. This is the place where the strongest torsion forces take place.

29
30 31 32 33
18. Using PVA, glue the rear fuselage decking onto the fuselage. Use masking tape to secure it down, and to get it blended nicely to the fuselage side. Let it dry.
19. Once the decking is dry, glue F19 to the front of the turtle deck, using masking tape to secure it while it dries. Then, sand the excess.
20. Now, epoxy in the rear landing gear plate.
21. The next step will be to build the cabin floor and hatch cover. We suggest that you should glue together the hatch cover to the floor of the cockpit with epoxy, on your bench, and not on the plane. Then sand it until you get a perfect match with the fuselage.

22. With some 8mm balsa, face the sides of the hatch cover. This will cover all the foam on the sides of the hatch.
23. Then glue F22 to the front of the fuselage, making sure that it is lined accurately44
24. Now glue the hatch locating pins about 5cm into the foam in the hatch, and about 1cm beyond F2. You can locate them onto the foam by using the pre-drilled holes in F2.45
25. Glue using epoxy, F18, about 1/2 mm away from F19. Sand the canopy flush with the turtle deck
26. Now, fit the cowl. Carefully sand the fuselage sides, to get the same shape as F2. Be sure to keep it aligned very well, the distance from F2 to the spinner break plate should be 190 mm. on the 24%, or 240mm in the 27% Remove any of the excess
27. Also, you may now sand the undercarriage plate to keep the shape of the fuselage sides.
28. You can now find a suitable way to attach the hatch to the fuselage. We use a screw going through the bottom of the hatch, into a plate in the fuselage. This helps to prevent it getting loose from vibrations
29. Now, sheet inside the fuselage, on top of the stringers between F2 and F3B, and F3 and F4 using 2mm balsa.

Note that that F1 and the engine box sides (F25 and F 26) will be glued when you fit your engine. This is because you will have to move F1, depending on which engine you use.

61
Next >>